Archive for Brahmin cuisine

10 Simple Kashmiri pundit recipes

The long and peaceful existence of the Saraswat Brahmins, who had emigrated to Kashmir due to the drying up of the river Saraswati, came to an end in the fourteenth century, when Kashmir fell to the Afghans. Since then, their story has been a tragedy, which continues to this day. Hounded out of their homeland, the gentle Pundits still remain homeless, in their own country.

This cookbook lists 10 vegetarian Kashmiri Pundit recipes, greatly simplified so that a first time cook can easily cook them. There is a dearth of this delightfully original cuisine on the Net. For detailed recipes, check out Sonya Atal Sapru’s ‘Zaika’, published by Harper Collins.

The following recipes are listed in this cookbook.

1.: Kishmish Raita (Raisins in Yogurt) is just yogurt mixed with soaked raisins.

2.: Patta Gobi Sabji ( Cabbage curry) is made from stir fried cabbage.

3.: Palak Baingan Sabji (Eggplant Spinach curry) is the unusual combination of eggplant cooked with spinach.

4.: Khatte Baingan (Sour Eggplant curry ) is stir fried eggplant garnished with lemon juice.

5.: Navratan Chutney (Sweet & Sour Mango Chutney) is cooked from raw mangoes and sugar into a jam.

6.: Urad Dal: (Urad dal curry) is boiled white urad dal curry.

7.: Channe ki Dal (Bengal dal curry ) uses Bengal gram as the curry base.

8.: Arhar Dal (Blended coconut – yogurt curry) is cooked from boiled tuvar dal.

9.:. Shaljum Dal (Turnip and Mung dal curry) is the unusual combination of tuvar dal cooked with turnips.

10.: Khatti Arhar Dal (Sour tuvar dal curry) is boiled tuvar dal soured with lemon juice.

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10 Simple Saraswat Recipes

I found the story of Saraswati, the lost river and the subsequent Brahmin migrations fascinating. It is humbling to know that it was not the mighty Ganga, but Saraswati which was held in high esteem in Vedic times. In the Rig Veda, the mother of all vedas, Ganga is mentioned once, but Saraswati is mentioned at least 60 times. It is extolled as ambitame, naditame, devitame Saraswati.” (“The, finest mother, finest river, finest goddess’ is Saraswati). It was so revered, that it is still worshipped, 5000 years after it disappeared.

Both Sutlej and Yamnua were tributaries of Saraswati. Due to various factors, Sutlej turned west and joined Beas, whereas Yamuna turned east to join the Ganga. As Yamuna brought Saraswati water to Ganges, the place where Yamuna joins Ganga is still worshipped as Triveni Sangamam (the confluence of three rivers, Ganga- Yamuna and Saraswati). Does anyone know if the Sutlej – Beas –Sindhu confluence is equally revered?

Due to the paucity of authentic Saraswat recipes on the Internet, I’ve drawn heavily upon Rasachandrika, the Bible of Saraswat cuisine.

For more detailed recipes and delightful variations, check out my fellow bloggers below.

Sol Kadi (Raw Kokum Curry with coconut milk) Replace half the water in the Bhinda Kadi above with coconut milk and you have the Sol Kadi. Coconut paste, garlic paste and green chilly paste can be mixed in with Sol Kadi.

Potato Upkari( Stir fried potato with coconut) A variety of boiled vegetables are mixed with grated coconut and stir fried into delicious Upkaris.

Potato Talsani is dry, stir fried potatoes, served as an accompaniment to rice and curry.

Kadgi sukke : (Raw jack fruit curry) Baby jackfruit is boiled and stir fried with a paste of coconut, red chili and tamarind.

Mango Uddamethi is a thick chunky curry where raw mango is cooked with coconut milk, fenugreek and jaggery.

Dali Thoye
(Spiced lentil curry) is a spiced up Tuvar dal curry, much loved in the Konkan.

Here’s what I learnt from Saraswat cuisine.

The combination of sweet and salt works – as demonstrated by the Gujarati cuisine and Saraswat cuisine.

Without understanding the history, it is impossible to understand a cuisine. You need to understand Saraswat history to know why some Brahmins sects in Konkan and Bengal eat fish and why Kashmiri pundits eat meat.

A raita need not always have yogurt in it, as evidenced by the raw mango raita.

The mild bedige chilies can be used to give a deep red colour to curries, without making them hot.

Dried gooseberries can be used as a souring agent in making rasam, as evidenced by the Avala Saru.

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1001 Iyer Curries

Iyer cuisine arose from the ritualistic, vegetarian cooking practices of Tamil Brahmins from Cauvery delta, chiefly from Tiruchi, Tanjore and Mayavaram of central Tamilnadu.

Traditionally Iyer cooking is done only after a bath and concepts like madi ( avoiding contact with anything not recently cleaned) and pathu (avoiding contact with food served to the diner) are still practiced in many households. The food is served only after it is offered to Gods and ancestors ( or rather to crows ). After the food is served, the males go through an elaborate ritual, worshipping it, sanctifying it, offer it to various Gods and only then start eating it. A brief ritual is also observed at the end of the meal, thanking the Gods.

The most favourite ‘curries’ of the Iyers are also the most basic, requiring little or no cooking at all. Iyers are known for their love of yogurt , paruppu ( boiled tuvar dal) and ghee. The meal starts with cooked rice consumed with paruppu and ghee and ends with yogurt eaten mixed with rice. In fact Iyer’s undying love for yogurt- rice combo has earned them the name ‘Thayir Sadam’, which is what most lunchboxes of Iyer children still contain !

Iyer migrations to Kerala, Bengal and Karnataka has led to the development of distinct cuisines in these places. At their core, you’ll see that these cuisines follow the Tamil Brahmin style of cooking, with some key ingredients replaced with whatever was available easily in the new lands they settled in. For example, replace sesame oil with coconut oil and Tanjore cuisine moves one step closer to becoming Palghat cuisine.

Typically onions, garlic or spices like fennel, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves are not used in Brahmin cuisine. But unlike the more orthodox Iyengar cuisine, Iyer cuisine tolerates them and you’ll occasionally find them being used.

Like most south Indian cuisines, Iyer curries are built on tamarind, lentils, yogurt and coconut. Different combinations of these building blocks give rise to different curry families. Meenakshi Ammal’s ‘Samaithu Par’ is the classic cookbook cataloging Iyer cuisine.

If you spot a bloomer or have traditional Iyer recipes you’d like to be linked here, mail me or leave a comment. Thanks !

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